CBD Use in Cosmetics: Safety and Regulation

According to scientific sources, cannabidiol (CBD) acts as an adaptogen when applied topically. This means it increases the skin’s ability to adapt to environmental factors and helps prevent damage. For this reason, CBD is gaining attention as a cosmetic ingredient.

CBD interacts with different receptors (CB1 and CB2) located in the skin and involved in maintaining skin homeostasis. Various cannabinoids bind to these receptors, including CBD, influencing several epidermal processes.

Thanks to this adaptability and its potential role in skin balance, CBD is of particular interest in anti-aging and sebum-regulating cosmetics. However, before its use, brands must carefully evaluate the legal framework in each market.

CBD in Cosmetics: FDA Position

Currently, the FDA does not have a specific regulation for CBD use in cosmetics. Nevertheless, based on existing studies, the agency does not recommend its use in pregnant or lactating women due to possible risks for the baby.

Key points under the FDA framework:

• Cosmetic ingredients and products do not require pre-market approval, but they must be safe under normal use conditions.
• Products must not be misbranded or mislabeled regarding concentration and ingredient function.
• If a CBD product is intended to affect the structure or functions of the body, it may be considered a drug instead of a cosmetic, requiring FDA approval.

Therefore, although cosmetics containing CBD can be marketed in the US, they remain subject to FDA oversight and possible recalls if safety is compromised.

CBD in Cosmetics: European Union Regulation

In the European Union, CBD is regulated under Regulation (EC) 1223/2009. The situation depends on the source of CBD:

• Prohibited if obtained from extracts, tinctures or resins of Cannabis sativa, since they may contain THC (listed under the Single Convention on Narcotic Drugs, 1961).
• Allowed if derived from seeds or leaves, provided documentation confirms the source and demonstrates THC content.
• Synthetic CBD is permitted and recommended, as it eliminates the risk of THC presence.

Although there is no established legal framework setting a THC threshold in cosmetics, the WHO Expert Committee on Drug Dependence (2019) suggested that preparations with predominantly cannabidiol and less than 0.2% THC should not be under international control.

In short, CBD generates great interest in cosmetics as an innovative ingredient. Yet, its use remains restricted to certain conditions, making compliance and documentation essential.

Conclusion

CBD use in cosmetics shows promising applications, but the lack of harmonized regulations makes compliance complex. Both in the US and the EU, cosmetics with CBD must meet strict requirements to ensure safety and avoid regulatory risks.

At Cosmeservice, we help brands understand and apply these rules, ensuring that CBD cosmetics are safe, compliant and ready for the market.

References

1. Oláh A, Tóth BI, Borbíró I, Sugawara K, Szöllõsi AG, Czifra G, Pál B, Ambrus L, Kloepper J, Camera E, Ludovici M, Picardo M, Voets T, Zouboulis CC, Paus R, Bíró T. Cannabidiol exerts sebostatic and antiinflammatory effects on human sebocytes. (2014) The Journal of Clinical Investigation. 124(9):3713-24. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25061872
2. Papaseit E, Pérez-Mañá C, Pérez-Acevedo AP, Hladun O, Torres-Moreno MC, Muga R, Torrens M, Farré M. Cannabinoids: from pot to lab. Int J Med Sci 2018; 15(12):1286-1295. doi:10.7150/ijms.27087. Available from http://www.medsci.org/v15p1286.htm
3. https://www.mentactiva.com/cbd-en-cosmetica-natural/
4. https://www.fda.gov/consumers/consumer-updates/cosmetics
5. Reglamento (CE) 1223/2009 del Parlamento Europeo y del Consejo, de 30 de noviembre de 2009, sobre los productos cosméticos. https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/ES/TXT/PDF/?uri=CELEX:02009R1223-20191127&qid=1589956569387&from=ES