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What is Octocrylene and why it’s used
Octocrylene (INCI: Octocrylene, CAS 6197-30-4) is an organic UV filter commonly found in sunscreens, moisturisers with SPF, foundations and lip balms. It protects the skin by absorbing UVB and short UVA rays, and it also stabilises other filters such as avobenzone. Its compatibility and versatility have made it a popular choice for formulators worldwide.
What the EU Cosmetics Regulation says
Under Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, Octocrylene is authorised in Annex VI as a UV filter at up to 10 % in both leave-on and rinse-off products. Safety evaluations by the SCCS (SCCS/1627/21) concluded that this level does not pose a risk to human health.
Recent studies, however, indicate that Octocrylene may persist in aquatic environments, contributing to long-term ecological effects. These findings have led French authorities to take action.
The French proposal: protecting the environment
In October 2025, the French Agency for Food, Environmental and Occupational Health & Safety (ANSES) proposed a restriction on Octocrylene in cosmetics to limit its environmental impact. The measure is currently under assessment by the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) within the REACH framework.
According to ANSES, Octocrylene is persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic (PBT) in aquatic systems. The agency recommends a drastic concentration limit of around 0.001 % w/w in cosmetic products.
- Public consultation: open until 24 March 2026
- Next steps: ECHA committees’ opinions expected later in 2026
- Possible adoption: European Commission decision in 2027
Will this apply beyond France?
For now, the proposed restriction has been submitted by France through ANSES under the REACH Regulation. This means the measure is currently being evaluated at EU level by ECHA’s committees (RAC and SEAC).
If the European Commission ultimately decides to include the restriction in Annex XVII of REACH, it would then become legally binding across all EU and EEA Member States. Until the decision is officially adopted, the use of cosmetics containing octocrylene remains permitted; however, many brands are proactively reformulating without this ingredient to anticipate potential regulatory impacts.
What brands should do now
Cosmetic companies using Octocrylene should start evaluating their formulas and prepare for potential reformulation. Identifying affected products and testing alternative UV filters, can help secure product continuity.
Brands should also plan to update their CPSR, PIF and CPNP documentation, and coordinate with their Responsible Person to ensure compliance once the restriction is adopted. Early preparation will help avoid disruptions in production and marketing.
How Cosmeservice can support you
At Cosmeservice, we help cosmetic brands anticipate and adapt to new regulatory measures efficiently. Our regulatory team can analyse your portfolio, determine which products may be affected and propose a safe, compliant reformulation plan.
For personalised guidance on this upcoming restriction or reformulation support, contact us at info@cosmeservice.com.
